Route 66 Day Five: Entering Oklahoma …

Purchased at Bilke's Western Outlet in Baxter Springs, Kansas

Today was another fun-filled day on my Route 66 road-trip, as I headed into Oklahoma – officially leaving the Midwest. And there was just one thing I had to do before leaving Kansas: buying a nice pair of cowboy boots. I’ll wear them for the next several days – so that by the time I get to the Grand Canyon and ride a mule, I should have gotten them fit very well.

After the Red Brick Inn in Baxter Springs gave me a delicious complimentary breakfast, I got into the car to go to my first stop: Vinita, Oklahoma – the hometown of Sister Bernie Galvin. Anyone who has worked in San Francisco on social justice issues knows Sister Bernie, and when she heard that I was traveling Route 66 she contacted her family. I was set to meet her brothers Tim and Mike at 11:00 a.m., and Tim had promised to barbecue some steaks. With my cowboy boots on (and my pink Macy’s button-shirt), I popped my Johnny Cash CD as I crossed the state line into Oklahoma. After a brief stop in Miami (which the locals pronounce “Mi-a-muh”), it was off to Vinita …

Tim Galvin's barbecued steak lunch.

Tim and Mike (and his son Mike) were ready to greet me as I arrived, with steaks all barbecued and ready to be eaten. Tim and Mike have both worked for labor unions over the years. The Galvins have been in the area for generations, and their grandfather knew Will Rogers. “He tried to trade our grandfather’s bicycle for a horse,” said Tim – as we spent a pleasant lunch talking about politics, and what I have to look forward to on Route 66 today. They told me about the world’s tallest soda-pop bottle in Arcadia, as well as the world’s only Round Barn. “I’m sure they don’t do any square-dancing there,” he quipped. Tim says I should take some of the left-over steaks, but I tell him I don’t have a cooler. So he takes a styrofoam cooler from his garage, fills it with ice, and wraps up one of his steaks for me to eat down the road.

As I head off Southwest on Route 66, the landscape is flat. But this is not the boring flat Illinois prairie. Oklahoma’s lush orange fields give it a whole new feel to it. Of course, now is the perfect time to sing along to the entire score of Rodgers & Hammerstein’s Oklahoma! – so I throw in the CD. There’s a bright golden haze on the meadow; there’s a bright golden haze on the meadow; The corn is as high as an elephant’s eye, and it looks like it’s climbing way up to the sky. Oh, and yes … all the cattle are standing like statues. In this part of Oklahoma, Route 66 is an efficient four-lane highway – which most locals use, because the Interstate is a toll road. I make really good time on it, as I sing along to every song on the album.

Will Rogers Museum in Claremore, Oklahoma

Now we’re in Claremore – the hometown of Oklahoma’s favorite son, Will Rogers. The cowboy, humorist, vaudeville actor and newspaper columnist was a legend in his time – which is still very much felt here. Route 66 is actually called the Will Rogers Memorial Highway in Oklahoma, so I give myself an hour to take a look. The museum was pretty incredible, as it chronicled his early life as an actor – until his wife convinced him that he was a far more talented writer. The museum is complete with famous witty sayings that Rogers said, and the influence he had on U.S. Presidents before his tragic death from a plane crash in 1935. Rogers was part-Cherokee, and he was always fond of saying “my ancestors didn’t come on the Mayflower, but they were there to meet them.”

Before leaving, I buy a CD from the gift shop of Will Rogers’ old radio broadcasts from the 1930’s. One thing that has fascinated me about Oklahoma is why the state is so conservative – it was literally the only state in the nation where Barack Obama failed to win a single county. But when you listen to Will Rogers, he was anything but a right-winger. While laced with humor, his commentary was serious about the need for jobs to help the unemployed – and his comments about FDR were a little too prescient today. “The Republicans have a plan,” he said in 1933: “do nothing, and hope that means Roosevelt can’t do nothing either.” Of course, FDR wasn’t afraid of Republicans.

Blue Whale in Catoosa, OK

As Route 66 approaches Tulsa, I just have to stop to visit another roadside landmark. Before leaving on this road trip, I mentioned on Twitter that I was doing Route 66 – and the Blue Whale of Catoosa sent me a tweet, inviting me to come drop by. The Blue Whale was once in a child’s amusement park, and preservationist have kept it as a roadside landmark. Definitely one of the fun, kitschy things that you find along Route 66!

Approaching Tulsa, I could stop for more than gas – but it’s already 3:00 p.m., and I’m eager to get to Oklahoma City. While Tulsa may have things to offer, the only thing it reminds me of is Oral Roberts University – so I move on. Now, the Oklahoma landscape has improved for the better. You still have the lush orange scenery, but now Route 66 is not flat – but the whole stretch from here to Oklahoma City is rolling hills.

Depew, Oklahoma

Another thought on Oklahoma. Yesterday, I commented how much poverty I saw in Missouri – and to be honest, I expected Oklahoma to be very much the same. But there’s a critical difference here. Oklahoma seems to be more proud of its Route 66 heritage, and there are more fun things to do along the road – even in places that may be economically depressed. Take Depew, for example – a small town of 501 people. They just have a general store, but I found it so much more charming than the towns in Missouri.

Now, Oklahoma City is getting closer – and I’m rolling pretty well on Route 66. But it’s getting late, so I take a brief stop in Stroud to grab a cup of coffee. Before Oklahoma City, I just have two things to do and they’re both in Arcadia: visit the Round Barn, and visit the world’s tallest soda-pop bottle. As I get back in the car, I play Journey’s Greatest Hits to keep me focused on the road – and while driving, it makes me feel like Will Schuester.

World's largest soda-pop bottle in Arcadia, OK.

I finally get to the Round Barn, but the gift shop closed an hour earlier – and it looks like the place is reserved for a party tonight. You can view a photo of it at my Facebook page. And then, just a little bit further, is the world’s largest soda-pop bottle. Frankly, I’m underwhelmed … having seen the world’s largest rocking chair yesterday. It’s not even made of glass!! But later that evening, my friends in Oklahoma City say it’s really cool when lit up. I guess I just got there too early, when it was still light out.

At 7:00 p.m., I arrive in downtown Oklahoma City – having found the city really easy to navigate. I meet up with my friend Karina at the Wedge, an awesome pizzeria in Bricktown – where we order the “American Pie.” I met Karina at Netroots Nation in 2008, when she worked for Andrew Rice – Oklahoma’s Democratic nominee for U.S. Senate. She has worked in Oklahoma Democratic politics for several years, and has just switched jobs. She promises to take me to a gay bar in Oklahoma City after dinner, but first suggests we view the Oklahoma City bombing memorial.

Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial

On April 19, 1995 at 9:00 a.m., Timothy McVeigh and Terry Nichols exploded the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building in Oklahoma City – killing over 200 people. On this site, the city has built a tasteful memorial with a reflecting pool – with chairs to commemorate all who died in that tragedy. And at night-time, the site is peaceful and beautiful.

Afterwards, we head to Boom! – a gay bar northwest of downtown, where practically everyone knows each other. The bartender explains to me that a lot of young gay men in Oklahoma City are part of a softball league, so they get to know each other in different venues. It was frankly a more close-knit and healthy environment than what I’ve seen in San Francisco. As it gets late, I head back towards Bricktown to check into my hotel for the night. I’m ready to start blogging, when I get a call from my friend George – who just happens to be in Oklahoma City for the weekend at his cousin’s wedding, and who has been following my blog on Facebook. We meet up for about an hour at a piano bar downtown – before last call at 2:00 a.m. forces us to leave. What a great unexpected way to end my day in Oklahoma City. Tomorrow, I have a lot of driving … as I head due west to Amarillo, Texas.


5 Responses to “Route 66 Day Five: Entering Oklahoma …”

  1. Imelda Maurer, cdp Says:

    I loved reading your posting about traveling throught Oklahoma, Pauol! I taught at our Sisters’ Catholic School in Vinita as a very young Sister. I taught six of Sister Bernie’s brothers and sisters.That was in the ’60s. Oklahoma was alive with a boom in the oil industry and great enthusiasm over Vatican II. It was a wonderful time and a wonderful place to be.

    Much later – about ten years ago -I was director of an upscale, Episcopal-sponsored Assisted Living Community in Ardmore, Oklahoma. I was happy to be back in Oklahoma but was jolted by the conservatism I found both in public politics and in the Catholic Church. I don’t how in happened. Oklahoma has a firecly progressive past. (Read RED DIRT by Roxanne Dunbar-Ortiz, a self-described “revolutionary, feminist and historian” who grew up not too far from Oklahoma City. She now lives in San Francisco.)

    I found much poverty in my last ‘tour of duty’ in Oklahoma. Ardmore and its surrounding little towns are enclaves of old wealth — from oil primarily — and widespread modern poverty. I found it depressing, particularly in the context of the conservative, dogmatic and personalized spirituality I found in most Catholic Churches.

  2. Sister Bernie Galvin Says:

    Good morning, Paul!
    I was with you in spirit all day yesterday as you rolled 66 through my beautiful (but poor) State of Oklahoma. Each morning I look forward to reading your blog reports…especially today.

    I am so glad you were able to meet some of my family. Tim called right after you left and said how much he and Mike and Mike enjoyed visiting with you…and to tell you that the next time you come through, plan on spending the night!

    You said you talked politics almost the whole time with my brothers. Paul, if you visited with them for a week, politics and Union would still be the topics, almost exclusively…with jokes and humorous stories in between all the seriousness, of course.

    I love your cowboy boots! When I was a poor little kid growing up in Oklahoma, I longed and prayed for only three things: a Micky Mouse watch, a bicycle, and a pair of cowboy boots! I got a bike (albeit common property) just a few months before I entered the convent; a friend who knew my story gave me a Mickey Mouse watch for my 50th birthday; and another friend, knowing my story, gave me a pair of cowboy boots when I turned 73! Friends, if you just wait looong enough…!

    Well, my dear friend, enjoy and be safe the rest of your trip. I look forward to hearing more of your adventure upon your return to San Francisco.

    Sister Bernie

  3. Route 66 Day Eight: Enchanted by the Land of Enchantment « Paul Hogarth’s Personal Blog Says:

    […] Before leaving town, I check my e-mail – and see that my friend George (who I hung out with back in Oklahoma City serendipitously) commented on my Facebook status: “stop listening to your CD’s and put […]

  4. My Top Ten Insights from Traveling Route 66 « Paul Hogarth’s Personal Blog Says:

    […] wrote his bestseller What’s the Matter with Kansas? – but the question should really be asked about Oklahoma. It is the only state where Barack Obama failed to win a single county, and of course in 2010 […]

  5. Paul Hogarth: My Top 10 Insights From Traveling Route 66 – Says:

    […] his bestseller What’s the Matter with Kansas? — but the question should really be asked about Oklahoma. It is the only state where Barack Obama failed to win a single county, and of course in 2010 […]

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